I melted into the table in the warm candlelit room. Just hours ago I'd been cramped in a plane seat, traveling from Los Angeles, and now I was on the New Jersey shore, experiencing a Remineralizing Bliss Massage. Kathy, my masseuse, was pressing the exact right spots to make my red-eye flight aches disappear. Soft taped sounds of chirping birds and wind chimes along with the calming lavender and sage creams she rubbed over me brought me to dreamland. When it ended, I floated away in my comfy Terry robe to stare out at the crashing sea, and inhaled the fresh salt air in a state of pure euphoria.

I treated myself to a weekend of pampering in Long Branch, New Jersey at the Ocean Place Resort & Spa. I'd grown up in this sleepy seaside town, an hour's drive from Manhattan. It had been years since I'd visited the spot of so many idyllic summer memories. Old friends had told me that Long Branch was undergoing major redevelopment and attracting city visitors who preferred the proximity and casual atmosphere of the Jersey shore to the crowds, high prices, and 3 hour drive to the Hamptons.

From the moment I arrived, it was obvious big changes were in the works. Next to the Ocean Place Resort & Spa, Pier Village, a huge Victorian-designed waterfront complex was under construction. It will be completed in 2005, featuring boutiques, restaurants, a beach club, luxury rental apartments, music venues and amusement areas. This was a far cry from the broken down boardwalk I remembered from the 60's and 70's. Back then it seemed fine to me, but oldsters would lament, "Long Branch used to be so nice." They had lived through the tail end of the town's hey day, which began in the late 19th century when wealthy travelers summered here, enjoying its elegant casino, pier and nearby racetrack.

It looked to me from the bustling activity at Ocean Place that Long Branch was becoming "nice" again. The resort is a popular spot for weddings, business conferences, parties and visitors like me seeking a relaxing vacation.

Ocean Place, Ocean View Room

My ocean view room was spacious, featuring a beach cottage-like décor with pale yellow walls and whitewashed pine furnishings. I left the sliding glass door open to the private balcony, lulled by the sound of the crashing surf. At sunrise, boats dotted the horizon and locals on the jetties cast out their lines for the catch of the day. Later, joggers on the waterfront promenade and sunbathers lazing on the beach added to my breathtaking view. (CONTINUE...)