Just
as Table Mountain dominates South Africa, so too
does the issue of race dominate the country, and
some exploration into Apartheid should be made
by everyone who visits. One of the most poignant
things to do in South Africa is to take a guided
and perfectly safe tour into the heart of these
vast townships. Museums such as the District Six
Museum tell the story of Apartheid in different
ways - District Six, for instance, was a thriving
colored community that was suddenly decreed to
be an area for whites, causing the forced relocation
of over 60,000 individuals. The area was demolished
but never developed, and today lies like a scar
across an otherwise beautiful city.
|
Table
Mountain from Robben Island |
Also
open to the public is Robben Island, the small
island in the middle of the harbor where Nelson
Mandela and other political prisoners were incarcerated
for decades. First taken around the island in
a bus, we enjoyed fine views across the harbor
to the city before coming to the quarry where
prisoner toiled for hours. There was inspiration
even here, however, as we learned how the prisoners
used an area mostly out of site of the guards
for teaching and supporting each other during
their breaks. We were also taken around the barren
and silent prison complex itself by one of the
island's former political prisoners and shown
the cell where Nelson Mandela lived before boarding
a boat back to the city itself.
The
city center is still vibrant and full of life,
and with Table Mountain always in the background,
it is fun to explore the city on foot for a few
hours and see the mountain from different vantages.
You
will pass by the attractive City Hall on your
way to the Castle of Good Hope, once a Dutch East
India Company fort and the oldest building in
the country. Also within walking distance is the
Company's Gardens, an attractive park located
in the heart of the city center near the open-air
market of Greenmarket Square. Only blocks away
from the stately Company buildings is Bo-Kaap,
home of the city's Muslim population.
At
least one full day should be set aside for a trip
down to the Cape of Good Hope Nature Preserve,
a huge park full of rolling hills, ostriches and
baboons set at the very tip of the peninsula 25
miles to the south. Dramatic seaside landscapes
fill the drive, and stop off for lunch at the
small town of Simon's Town. There, a colony of
penguins lives happily on the beaches, and walking
along paths, you can get up close and personal
with penguins-and their stench. If you have time
on the way back, the Kirstenbosch National Botanical
Gardens is considered one of the loveliest spots
on the Cape.
Perhaps
the best and safest place to stay is the Victoria
and Alfred Waterfront, a touristy section filled
with hotels and restaurants ranging from pizza
joints to restaurants offering native African
meals. Most appealing, however, is the number
of jetties and quays that jut into the harbor,
and this area is still used as a working harbor
with oceangoing fishing trawlers in dry-dock juxtaposed
against sailboats. Harbor seals are often seen
lounging on the docks for all to see, and a popular
maritime museum is worth a visit.
Accommodations
there span the budget range, from hostels a few
blocks outside the waterfront to luxury hotels.
We stayed in the Cape Grace, which is set on its
own pier and has a reputation as one of the best
hotels in South Africa, if not the world. Again,
we relished in a South African contrast: our luxurious
hotel overlooked a pier for ocean trawlers below
while a sneaky view of Table Mountain was just
off to our right. It was a delightful bit of atmosphere
and made the hotel somehow more authentic and
real.
For
those looking for more moderate accommodations,
the Breakwater is also located in the V&A
waterfront, and being a former prison, offers
slightly more scaled back rooms and an excellent
value.
Much
of South Africa has a reputation for crime and
violence, and while it does exist, problems with
crime can be minimalized by following simple precautions.
Always drive with your doors locked, and don't
drive at night, even on highways. Walking around
the city at night is not recommended except in
certain, very well-defined areas, so plan on taking
taxis to meals out. During the day, the city center
is perfectly safe, but be sensible and remove
any jewelry or anything flashy and expensive.
Cape
Town has a wonderful temperate climate that can
be visited any time of the year, although there
are definite seasons. During the summer, temperatures
drift into the 80s and the beaches are filled
with holidaymakers, although the water may often
be a bit cold. During the winter, the weather
is more fickle and often rainier, and strong storms
can race across the Atlantic and into the city.
Still, the weather is often pleasant, with temperatures
hovering in the 60s during the day.
From
Cape Town, there is plenty more to explore in
South Africa alone, from the coastal areas to
the south to the famous game parks in the northeast.
Direct air flights are common from the United
States, and earlier this year, South African Airways
was advertising roundtrip fares starting at around
$1200 from the East Coast. Once in South Africa,
the strong Dollar to Rand exchange rate makes
the country relatively inexpensive, especially
when compared to many usual holiday spots in Europe
where the Euro and Pound have gained against the
dollar.
Sailing
away from Cape Town for the second time in my
life without having hiked around the top of Table
Mountain, I was disappointed but more resolved
than ever. I had only begun to scratch the surface
of South Africa, and missing Table Mountain gave
me just the excuse I needed to return again. (...BACK)
FOR
MORE INFORMATION:
Cape
Town Tourism
South
Africa Tourism